
The last time I ate at a California Pizza Kitchen was for a friend’s 12th birthday, because one had just opened up in Manhattan and it was totally a thing for preteen girls who were suddenly self-aware about the concept of eating healthy. I think I got a chicken pizza? Anyway, I had put the place out of my mind until last week, when for reasons that are neither here or there I found myself at their location in a mall in Connecticut.
I don’t mean to disparage anyone’s tastes but we need to address the alphabet soup that is the CPK menu. Some of the dishes sound like a dare.

Chicken tequila fettuccine makes no mention of actual tequila but that doesn’t mean it’s not there. Or is tequila more of a state of mind here? Does it just make you wish you had some? And I really, really try not to be that New Yorker pizza snob but what is this thing about putting 12 avocados on top of something and calling it “California.” PIZZA DOESN’T NEED THAT.
Anyway, the most astounding menu item was “Two in a bowl.”

It’s two soups in one bowl. That’s it. Whatever two soups you want, together, finally. I don’t think it’s the concept here that confuses me because sure, sometimes you want lentil soup and minestrone, and by Grabthar’s hammer you should have it. But they gave it a name! And the name is TWO IN A BOWL! It is somehow too straightforward for my mind to comprehend. Two in a bowl. Yes. Soup there. Both.
Jaya Saxena died as she lived: contemplating soup.
“I’m at the pizza kitchen-the California pizza cafe-kitchen cafe chicken California pizza cafe!”
Obligatory Tig Notaro Taylor Dayne reference.
I just tried REALLY HARD to mentally sing that in the same tune as that combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell song
oh thank god it wasn’t just me
SAME
There is a small chorus of Pizza Hut Taco Bell singers really trying to get this one to work y’all
ME TOO
ME TOO, especially because my friends and I just had to look up the music video for that song last night.
YOU ARE NOT ALONE
Have you ever seen the glory of a KenTacoHut? They’re super rare – and might not exist anymore – but in Southwest Pennsylvania there used to be a couple – Kentucky Fried Chicken, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut, all in one convenient, terrifying location.
WANT
there was one in San Francisco! It is probably condos now.
Oh, and the KFC in SF (and other acronyms) where I used to get end-of-day chicken strips for my puppy turned into a restaurant called “Spork”, which made me laugh and laugh and laugh and I am old.
I’m at the Pizza Hut (what?)
I’m at the Taco Bell (what?)
I’m at the California Pizza Hut and Taco Bell
…
And I just wanted to say, I love your voice.
The better half and I were waiting around for a movie the other day and the CPK was right next door, so we said what the heck. I actually got that chicken tequila fettuccine thing, and it was just so boring. It wasn’t gross, exactly, but it just tasted like creamed salt.
I can’t comment on the Two in a Bowl, because no comment can be made.
Two in a bowl is worth…a soup in your hand.
I like these. We need more proverbs about soup.
“Too many cooks won’t spoil the broth, but a single finger will make you feel ginger”
“One can a week is frugal and chic. Three cans a week, a nutritionist seek”
“Sooner or later, the soup is tomat-er.”
“Too many cooks won’t spoil the broth
DO YOU REALIZE WHAT YOU HAVE JUST DONE
i thought i had rid myself of this particular earworm forever
There’s a Spanish proverb that can be literally translated as “From the hand to the mouth, the soup is lost,” and I have loved it since the moment I heard it in grade 9.
“Once you say you are a mushroom, you might as well get into the soup.” – The mayor of Almaty, Kazakhstan
I’ll also say that I had the misfortune of marrying a New Yorker, so now that we live on the West Coast, no pizza is ever good enough and we rarely even eat pizza because she’s so disappointed in it. I try to argue, “It’s still pizza! It’s still good, even if it’s not as good as what you grew up with!” to no avail.
Yes. My husband was *insufferable* when we lived in DC. Now he’s slightly better, but is still ridiculously picky about pizza. WE LIVE IN BROOKLYN. GET IT TOGETHER, HAMLET.
I am a Californian living on the East Coast, and I think NY pizza is limp pile of woe and grease.
*ducks*
SAME!!!! — STANDS FIRMLY IN PLACE WITH HEAD RAISED TO THE SKY
BAD New York pizza is. Good New York pizza is a thing of glory.
Everybody says this–and then they take me to their pizza place of designated glory, and I’m left thinking what I’ve always thought. I just do not prefer it and there is no “good” version for me, just as for melons, the Rolling Stones, and contouring.
The problem is that New York and Pizza are so firmly tied together that it creates a framing effect. Same reason people will legitimately enjoy water more when it comes from a fancy bottle or food if it’s plated well. Some where in the corners of the mind pizza in New York is tied in with all the positive New York jingoism. It works on New Yorkers and Tourists alike. Same with Texans and barbecue.
And perhaps by association with good times had? I have a fondness for the pizza joint next to the dive bar I frequented in grad school (shout out to The Tam!). That pizza was terrible, but it was part of the going-out ritual. They have since improved it, objectively, but it doesn’t taste of hedonism and friendship (i.e. grease and rubber), like it ought to.
The best pizza that I had in NYC was Chicago-style at the South Street Seaport. Wood-fired pizza isn’t bad, but it can’t possibly live up to the overselling that it’s suffered at the hands of Big Apple foodies.
is this a joke. am i not getting the joke.
the best NYC pizza is made by two kids from Long Island in New Orleans. It is called “Pizza Delicious” and it’s fucking righteously right on.
I’m living in California for grad school and honestly the purest joy I have these days is to bitterly complain with other East Coasters about all of the not-pizza abominations I have been served.
but most of the time it’s honest to god just a cracker with vegan cheese on it, or it swings too hard and is just a loaf of garlic bread
When it comes to “I moved to DC from somewhere else, let me spend many words on what’s better in my hometown”, I find the pizza partisanship somewhat at the more-tolerable end of the spectrum. In part, though, because it’s relatively easy to shrug and point out that there’s clearly no one ur-pizza, and then suggest we go to the has-all-the-certificates-of-“authenticity”-whatever-that-really-means neapolitan place down the street.
I moved to DC from Southern California and my go-to is how there is no decent Mexican food here.
There is definitely nothing worth talking about in terms of hole-in-the-wall-type places in my section of the District. (Although my husband has recently been initiated into some pretty darn great tacos from one of those gems hidden deep in suburbia.)
But I think some of the “modern/fancy Mexican”-type places, like Oyamel and El Centro, are a lot of fun. I’m not too worried about authenticity when a place in my neighborhood wants me to try twelve different variations on guacamole.
Is SuperTaco on Columbia still there? Because that was my go-to when I lived there.
And in the ‘burbs, out toward Shenandoah, in tiny Warrenton, VA, there’s a little crappy little place called Rancho El Paso that is as close to dingy-yet-delicious Arizona-style Mexican food as I’ve found on the East Coast.
My dad loves that Rancho El Paso restaurant (just “el Paso” to us) so much it is a running joke in my family… but never spoken, always implied with the subtle eyebrows, lest we hurt his simple taco-loving heart. There is no hungry occasion in which el Paso is not the answer.
I have a friend who moved from San Antonio to the Upper Midwest. I believe she and I have had that conversation.
Live in Chicago… watch the New Yorkers fight with the Chicago folks. Then watch them all go up to Milwaukee and be like “The fuck is this square cut nonsense?”
I’m a Chicagoan living on the east coast and yeah, I’ll eat pizza that’s not deep dish, but is it as incredibly satisfying and amazing and beautiful? no.
I was just complaining about the converse of this, which is Californians who are like “ugggh you can’t get a good burrito anywhere but California.” Okay yes California burritos are great but come on, there’s *almost* no such thing as a bad burrito. It’s like the perfect food.
Also, I’m in the Bay Area and there’s actually… a lot of really good East Coast style pizza around here?
Pittsburgh Pizza is weird. Some of it is great, but there is this place called Vincents or something and the pizza is massive and covered in toppings and super greasy and when I was about 17 I had a single piece and my arms went numb. It was horrific. And awful. I had it another time, and it was slightly better, but still too much. I personally like my local pizzaria, Mandy’s, that (along with gluten and allergen free options!) has pizza with french fries on top (it’s a thing in Pittsburgh) and it is amaaaaazing.
OMG, I lived in Pittsburgh as a kid and Vincent’s lurks in the back of my mind as the stuff of nightmares.
I live near a place where the big pizza thing is putting AMERICAN cheese on the pizza, sometimes with mozzarella, sometimes not and it sticks to the rough of your mouth so much and they chop little onions in the sauce and it’s all just one big NOPE
Eww. I need to know where this is so I can stay far, far away.
Oh hey St. Louis.
It’s actually not St. Louis. But now I’m scared that there is more than one place in the country that makes pizza this way.
“Jaya Saxena died as she lived: contemplating soup.”
hands down, best-ever byline.
It’s almost epitaph-worthy.
in Soup Focus groups, CPK discovered that the problem about soup was that people couldn’t decide which soup, so CPK decided on Two Soups in One Bowl
How does one sign up for soup focus groups? Asking for a friend.
“Two Soups, One Bowl” has a familiar ring to it…
more like lack of soup focus, amirite
My mom just sent me a recent This American Life that covered where those weird fast food things (like the dorrito tacos) come from. TL;DR: there probably was no soup focus group, it was dreamed up by a couple men in a little room who brainstorm food gimmicks.
TO BE FAIR I have seen this basic concept in high-end restaurants before? A chef friend of mine did a beet soup duo (can be viewed on MrChouffe’s Flickr) a few years back* and it was lovely and very tasty.
*I can’t believe I found this image, it is from 2011 and not in an album
Yes, but “Beet Soup Duo” sounds like a menu item. “Two in a Bowl” sounds like dad made leftovers again.
True.
Hee! My dad is KING of leftovers/randoms. Two in a Bowl is totally up his Dad Alley.
Me: whatja have for dinner, Dad?
Him: spicy turkey lentil chili AND chilled shrimp bisque with clams, all mixed together!
Me: **gag**
This is the man who believes a casserole can be made out of whatever’s on hand that he likes. So: “I like lima beans. I like cabbage. i like cinnamon. Let’s put them all in a casserole dish, add a can of cream-of-mushroom soup and call it dinner!”
My dad fries up whatever leftovers/vegetables are available with rice and lots of garlic and chili sauce for breakfast in the morning. Every morning. I’m kind of glad I don’t live at home anymore, I’m usually not awake enough to deal with that sort of food in the morning.
>
This is the man who believes a casserole can be made out of whatever’s on hand that he likes.
I’m not gonna claim that will turn out well 9 times out of 10. However that is in fact exactly what casserole is.
My dad used to make soup out of whatever is leftover in the fridge. Some days, SUPER AWESOME (like messy chili!), some days? SWEET PICKLE SOUP. SO GROSS. WHY.
“Two in a bowl” is to me wayyyyy too close to an infamous internet artifact that I will not describe/reference in greater detail.
oh NO now I’m thinking about it nooooo
maybe try replacing it with a kids song? That’s where my mind went, so now I”m aggressively listening to internet radio to try and remove “two in the bed and the little one said ‘roll over, roll over'” from my head.
That is where my mind went IMMEDIATELY. Thanks, internet!
UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I spent most of my youth radiating all my will power toward not watching that infamy, and I am proud to say that I succeeded.
But I still know exactly what you are referring to.
I will go to my grave having never seen it. I WILL
Ditto 🙁
I apologize for adding to the trauma, but I’m not sure if you’re thinking of two soups/one cup or two in the bowl/one in I guess the soul? Or some other thing I need to be scared of altogether.
I say this as a Californian: Claifornia Pizza Kitchen is basically the pure embodiment of my favorite line from any of DeLillo’s novels–“Californians invented the concept of lifestyle. This alone warrants their doom.”
I APOLOGIZE FOR MY STATE.
This must be why, during a Thanksgiving game of charades, the word “lifestyle” came up during my turn and my immediate reaction was to mime driving in a convertible.
Related, I think:
On my very first visit to California (where I now bitterly live), I ate at a CPK in the John Wayne airport, and they served my pizza with plastic utensils that were shiny & silver in color, to the point that I wasn’t sure if they were real silverware or not. This is the most California thing that has ever happened to me.
The John Wayne airport! Yes. It is very California even though it is tiny and it might be because of the terrible food choices? I’m just spit balling.
It is, at least, so very SoCal because it is essentially a full-service mall, always filled with people returning from visits to Disneyland that are somehow classy and refined, and is unspeakably clean at all times. orange county is the WEIRDEST
I worked at a restaurant where a lady would regularly demand that we serve her two soups in one bowl and it was usually some abhorrent combination of soups and I really don’t know how she slept at night. I’m truly appalled that CPK is actually encouraging something so awful. And I hope this doesn’t mean that people will now go to regularly old restaurants and start demanding multiple soups in one bowl and disgusting everyone. Also, how on earth did they get the soups perfectly divided like that? Do they have special bowls??
I am REALLY confused about the execution of this menu item
I feel like the secret is viscosity? No way this works with two clear soups.
yes that’s correct. My mom actually does this with a pea soup and a carrot soup and it works great! you just need two thick pureed soups that will not mix (and that have different colors so they look good together).
The trick to doing two soups in one bowl: those soups must have the same viscosity. You can’t do two brothy soups. It has to be a thick soup. So you could do a cream of squash and a cream of spinach, or potato – cheese and carrot-ginger.
You put each soup in a pitcher and pour them in slowly at the same time, on opposite sides of the bowl.
When you eat them, do you put a lil of each soup into each spoonful? Or keep them entirely separate?
I don’t think there are any rules about eating Two Soups, but I imagine that after a few bites the soups will mix on their own, due to the nature of soups, currents, tsunamis, Coriolus forces, etc.
Butterflies flapping their wings are constantly screwing with the soup-eaters of the world.
I like the thought of someone ordering this and desperately trying to keep them separate.
For my sins, I used to work for CPK, shudder. I was on the opening team at one of the first East Coast stores. The two soups are thick, not clear broth ones, and the server ladles them into the bowl simultaneously, one ladle in each hand. It is a stupid idea and annoying to execute, but the kind of person who wants to eat “pizza” topped with Peking Duck in a restaurant that looks like a white-tiled bathroom is probably more excited about how food looks than how it tastes.
Look I liked this comment entirely because you led in with “for my sins…” and that is my favorite way to start any story.
If they did Two in Two Bowls, I might just be interested.
Yes! I love soup and I would eat two different kids for a meal, but separately. I really hope Panera does not copy this concept. I like my You Pick Two dealio to be soup and salad, not soup and soup together.
I HAVE GOTTEN THAT TWO SOUP BOWL DEAL AND IT OWNS
what is your life even LIKE!?!
Many moons ago, when a well-meaning boss gifted me a CPK gift card, I literally had the thought process I am sure their menu creators envisioned:
“Well, it’s a bit chilly today, maybe I’ll get some soup. Oh, tomato AND lentil soup? But I kind of want both? Wait, what’s thi – I CAN HAVE BOTH?! DREAMS ALIVE!”
The lentil was far superior.
I feel like no matter what, one of the soups is going to be better, and you will regret not getting One in a Bowl instead of what this really is, Two Halves in a Bowl.
How do they plate it (bowl it?)? Is there like a bowl divider they stick in and then pour the two soups on either side? Does it actually come out looking neatly divided? Or is it really just One New Flavor of Soup Made From Combining Two Menu Soups?
edit: nevermind i see this has been answered already.
oh my god you WOULD
Oh gosh this reminds me of one of my favorite witnessed moments (which has no right to be one of my favorite witnessed moments).
At a sushi place at the Detroit airport (I like to live dangerously), a man ordered two menu items. The waitress responded, “You know those are both soups right? One is a cup and the other is a bowl.” The man replied with a gruff “Yes.” And all I could imagine was the man being given these soups, dropping the cup in the bowl, and chugging it, bomb-drink style. (Unfortunately, no such thing happened.)
Looking back, he probably had no idea they were both soups, and was too embarrassed to reorder.
Sometimes a person just wants two soups! I’ve done it on purpose before. More likely to order two salads, but two soups works too! Do not care to have them in the same bowl though.
BY GRABTHAR’S HAMMER!!!!!!!!!!
Everything should be by Grabthar’s hammer.
Body By Grabthar’s Hammer
20/10, would buy.
I was going to make this exact comment.
How much do you want Alan Rickman to film a Vine eating Two in a Bowl at CPK?
And by “you,” I mean “me,” and by “how much,” I mean, “SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY.”
Well, there’s always A Day With Alan Rickman…
I’d like the Two in a Bowl, but in two bowls, please. And can you make both of the soups crab and corn chowder?
I need to go out to dinner with you.
I feel like, in my life, I’m not using “BY GRABTHAR’S HAMMER, …” frequently enough.
TOO MANY SOUPS (TOO MANY SOUPS)
TOO MANY SOUPS (TOOOOOO MANY SOOOOUPS)
Too many soups won’t fit in a bowl
Just shove it into your food hole
A dash of love and laughter too
In my Fettucine Tequila Sooooup
I’m not ashamed to admit that I really enjoy California Pizza Kitchen’s BBQ chicken pizza and lemonade. Also I’m in Russia right now and the pizza here is terrible, so I’d take pizza from basically anywhere in America right now.
OH, THE HORROR OF RUSSIAN PIZZA! “Tomato sauce? Surely we can just use ketchup!” “Pineapple is a thing people put on pizza – why not bananas? And strawberries?” Mayonnaise on everything….
Don’t forget the corn!
And the dill!
mm, you’re making me hungry
The dill! Yes! I may have once lost my mind a little bit at a restaurant in the FSU when my “mushroom pizza” showed up with a splorch of ketchup in the middle, and the entire surface of the thing was covered in a solid 1 cm layer of dill. The things I have seen… they haunt me.
I say forget the whole thing, and bring me all the khachapuri!
Yay for khachapuri!
My motto: when in doubt, go for the local version of melted cheese on a flat bread thing. See also: Stuff in Crust, Infinite Variations of.
Japan pizza places always have a corn and mayo pizza, I thought it was only them! The only pizza I’d ever get is margarita, which iirc was cheese, basil, and olive oil, because while I happily ate new Japanese foods, I was scared to have my childhood foods messed around with.
uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuugh why.
I am sincerely against pineapple on pizza, let alone other fruits (dates are acceptable on chicken pizzas), mayonnaise is disgusting, and ketchup DOES NOT BELONG ON PIZZA WHY RUSSIA WHY?!
I am sad to hear Russian pizza is bad! I had German pizza in Malburg, and it was amazing, it had eggs on it.
Jaya, why are you spending so much time at 12-year-olds’ birthday parties?
yes, I love that she specifies “a friend’s 12th birthday” but…. not her own age? Jaya, was this last year?!
The California Pizza Kitchen at the mall in the city I grew up in is right by the big fancy front entrance no one ever uses because the parking garage has its own entrance. The one time I think I ever ate there, as my friend and I were leaving, Snoop Dogg and his entourage came up and went into the mall through the fancy entrance. Of course, we followed, because honestly, didn’t you want to know where Snoop Dogg was going in the Cherry Creek mall? Eventually he and his entourage shut down one of the mall music stores and were letting people in one at a time to buy signed CDs. I bought one. It’s still at my parent’s house.
Nothing really to do with California Pizza Kitchen, except the association will always be there in my head.
I hope they do a special Christmas Two Soups, which would of course be tomato and split pea.
Festive!
My stepdad does this and I’ve never heard of it anywhere else. Is it A Thing??
Pour in the tomato first, then draw a triangle with the pea! It’s a christmas tree soup combo!!
I’m so much more confused by soup than I ever thought possible. I mean, if I want lentil and tomato at the same time and can’t decide, I feel like putting both in one bowl means I get neither lentil nor tomato? So I think I’m getting everything I want when I am actually not getting anything I want. Whereas if I just pick one soup I at least get one thing that I want.
I kinda live for the original chopped salad, and this is one place that my 8 and 12 yr old can agree on.
Same here, 10 and 13. The chopped salad is my saving grace.
My kingdom for a vegetable!
In defense of the “two soups, one bowl”: Duarte’s Tavern in Pescadero, CA has a cream of artichoke soup and a cream of green chile soup. Individually, they are great soups, but the combo is transcendent.
YAS I am here for the soup duo at Duarte’s. And the olallieberry pie.
Plus my great-great grandparents are buried up the block.
Hah. I knew I’d seen 2 soups somewhere and it was Duarte’s. Which is a wonderful restaurant. Thank you for that.
The “two in a bowl” thing sounds pretty neat, if you know what you’re getting into. It’s like the rise of self-serve soda fountains where you found out that mixing cola and orange soda was actually pretty good.
But you risk going too far, like when you think that adding Hawaiian Punch to your Sprite-Fanta-Coke combo is a worth a try.
They used to have a coke product called OK Cola that I swear was just orange soda and coke mixed together (and I loved it), so I always did this at fountains after it was discontinued.
That’s a thing in Germany! It’s called Spezi or Mezzo Mix!
OK SODA WAS A MAJOR THING THOUGH
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OK_Soda
I had a can rolling around in my stuff for ages. It’s probably still in a box in my mom’s attic. My friend in high school called the hotline every day to hear the new message.
Oh yeah! It was definitely a big thing for a while. I remember it had cool can art and stuff. Also it was delicious.
Wow, I had no idea it was only regionally tested. We were truly blessed for that all-too-short time.
For some reason, when i was a kid, we called the drink that resulted from the wanton mixing of cabonsted beverages a “suicide.”
Ok so here’s my theory on two soups/one bowl: frequently at chains of this type, soups are the one food item that waitstaff is allowed to nip at. And yes I speak from experience here. Now, over time, one gets bored with the same array of soups, no matter how much bread you soak them up with (again, see manager approved foods for starving waitstaff). This leads to experimentation and the combining of soups. Adding tomato bisque to crab chowder, etc etc. My guess is that there’s some combination of CPK soups that is amazing and after time managers caught on to the habits of their creative and hungry employees…?
Just a stab in the dark.
My parents went to CPK nearly every saturday for probably a decade, up through the final month before the divorce went through. They actively hated each other but they were still there. I guess some things are sacred.
I worked at two St. Louis CPK locations while I was in college in the early-to-mid aughts and the two-soup-one-bowl thing was popular even then. This trend goes back at least a decade! I do not care for most soups so I have not tried it, but plenty of Midwesterners were into it.
This whole place sounds like if you’d just told Salvador Dali about the concept of pizza.
The only time I went to CPK, I’d been in the US for a couple of weeks with work and my dour British digestive system was barely coping with two weeks of American restaurant food. I was flying home that afternoon, CPK was right next to my hotel, I’d been pooping and napping and cramping the whole weekend and I needed something very, very gentle to eat.
Bingo – CPK did gluten free plain cheese pizza. I ordered the pizza. The pizza arrived. I began eating the pizza and reading my book.
No fewer than five different servers (including the fellow British one they brought out specially to meet me, who seemed kinda drunk on sunshine or possibly just regular-drunk) came by my table to to tell me how proud they were of their gluten free pizza base, and to ask how I was enjoying it. And it was all I could do not to scream, “THIS IS JUST ABOUT THE ONLY THING MY SHUDDERING TRACT CAN TOLERATE RIGHT NOW, I DO NOT GIVE TWO SHITS ABOUT HOW PROUD YOU ARE OF IT, LET ME READ IN PEACE.”
It's actually not St. Louis. But now I'm scared that there is more than one place in the country that makes pizza this way.
i know this was a month ago but i am still thinking about "two in the bowl, one in the soul" as perhaps i may always be